Have you ever wondered how easy it would be to make your own homemade liquid laundry soap? This recipe is not only easy, the cost is less than a few dollars per batch and each batch makes enough for 110 loads of laundry.

This liquid laundry soap works Great for High Efficiency washers as it’s not a super sudsy soap.

The ingredients you’ll need should be available at your local grocery stores or maybe big box stores.

Box of 20 Mule Team Borax – You need 1 cup – in laundry soap isle
Box Arm & Hammer Washing Soda – You need 1/2 cup – in laundry soap isle
1 bar of ivory soap (I used my own handmade soap and part of a bar of castile)
Large clean bucket enough to hold 3 gallons of water easily – I used a 5 gallon bucket we acquired from a fast food joint – it used to be filled with bags of pickles.. we got it free.
Water

The ingredients are simple enough. Should only cost maybe $10, at most, likely less (I’ve had my boxes of powders for a year or so, and have no idea what I paid for them). The two boxes of powders will last you through several batches (or use to make powdered laundry soap, or even liquid hand soap).

First, shave your bar of soap using a peeler. I used 1/3 bar of castile and a 1/2 bar of handmade soap

Once your soap is in small pieces, place a pot on the stove big enough to hold 5 cups of water. Bring the water to a boil. When it begins to boil, lower heat to simmer and put the soap in the water. I covered with a lid and let it sit.

While your soap is melting, add 3 gallons of hot water to your bucket. For ease, I used a 2 qt pitcher to fill it.

To the hot water, add 1 cup of Borax and 1/2 cup of Washing Soda. Stir with long handled spoon until dissolved.

Add the melted soap water to the bucket and stir well. If you want to add any fragrance, add it now. Since I make soap, I have tons of fragrances around. I used one called Eucalyptus Thymes – I got from a place called Sweet Cakes (their eucalyptus is the best clean smell – not like medicinal eucalyptus). Or add essential oils. If you plan to make your soaps regularly and want it fragrances, I’d suggest finding a good soap/candle supply company (maybe one local to you?) and order it – it’s Much cheaper to order your essential oils and fragrances rather than purchase from the health food store or craft store.

Cover the bucket and set aside for 24 hours. Your soap may be watery or gel up in areas, may be slightly lumpy in areas. This is normal and nothing to worry about. Make sure to smoosh up the clumps when you add it to the washer. If you have smaller containers to put your in, it may be easier to handle – I have old detergent bottles and filled mine with my “new” soap. My soap is very watery – but very soapy.

This makes over 110 loads of liquid laundry soap – and you only need to use about a 1/2 cup.

Have you ever wondered how to make your own scented massage oil?

You can easily make your own massaging, moisturizing scented oil at home rather than buy it. I love using scented oils after a shower or bath particularly during the cooler weather. I put the oil all over just before toweling off. Afterwards, my skin is so silky soft and smooth. Plus, you will know exactly what goes into your massage oils and you will also be able to adjust it to suit your tastes and your body’s needs.

I like to infuse lavender into my oil. This year, I grew my own lavender. I’ll add a few sprigs to a small bottle of light olive oil and let it sit on the window sill and soak up the lavender goodness for a few weeks. Then, when I am ready to make an “after bath oil” I’ll use a bit of my lavender infused olive oil.

Olive oil is so easily attainable, I keep it on hand for cooking, soaping and bath & body. It’s a moisturizing oil, soothing and healing to all skin types.

Sweet almond oil is an excellent skin softener and moisturizer. Almond oil is great for all skin types but especially beneficial for dry or irritated skin.

Jojoba oil contains protein and minerals. It is similar to our own sebum which is secreted by our glands, helping lubricate, as well as, protect our skin. Not good for use at 100%, but adding to your base oil(s) in a small amount would be beneficial (but not necessary). This is, however, a nice oil to use to make a “perfume oil”. Use about 50 drops of your essential oil per 1 ounce of jojoba. Please be sure to research your essential oils prior to using at that strength however, as some EOs could be harmful in a high quanitity.

Grapeseed oil is a great massage oil. It has good “slip” and absorbs easily into the skin. It is mildly astringent and has regenerative qualities which help to tighten and tone the skin making it useful for skin issues such as acne, as well as repairing skin and cell membranes – use this one for stretchmarks pregnant momma!

Sesame oil is a great massage oil, penetrates the skin easily nourishing and detoxifying deep tissue layers. Because of it’s antioxidant properties some claim when used regularly, it’s also reduced stress and tension, promoting strength and vitality. Plus it’s great for wrinkle reduction! And it may even soothe minor burns or sunburns. Sesame oil is also a good base oil for perfume too.

These aren’t the only oils you may use, just a few – some are easier to find than others, like at the local grocery or specialty shop… or you may want to find a place online to purchase them. If you can’t find them, you should be able to find it at a few places which sell soap supplies.

These oils may be used in a blend, or on their own (except the jojoba, mix it with another base oil as stated).

Or go Aromatherapy — You may also wish to add scented essential oils, such as lavender or jasmine (not to be used in pregnancy), for an aromatherapy massage blend. Add 10-20 drops of your essential oil to per 1 ounce of carrier oil, depending on which essential oil(s) you choose.

Some essential oils shouldn’t be used under certain conditions, be sure you research which oils you’d like to use to ensure your safety and those using your oils.

This is one of my favorite lotions, moisturizing without leaving an oily feel on the skin.

Oil Phase:
9 oz sweet almond oil
3 oz jojoba oil
6 oz grapeseed oil
1 oz wheatgerm oil
2.5 oz stearic acid (used to thicken lotion)
2.5 oz ewax (thickens lotions; allows water and oil to blend)
3 oz shea butter

Water Phase:
44 oz distilled water
.6 oz citric acid (used to soften water)
1.8 oz glycerin
2 oz hydrolized wheat protein
1 oz rose hydrosol*
1 oz lavender hydrosol*

.8 oz fragrance (optional)
.7 optiphen (preservative)

* hydrosols are option, if unavailable, just up your water amount.

Separated Steps:
1. Combine all oil phase ingredients, except shea butter in a pan or microwave safe bowl. Heat over low on stove or in microwave until ewax is melted. Once melted, remove from heat, add shea butter and allow to melt.
2. Combine water phase ingredients, heating over low heat until citric acid is disolved.
3. Combine oil and water ingredients and mix with mixer on low until cool.
4. Add fragrance and preservative, blending until well incorporated.
5. Pour into sterilized containers

I combine my steps to speed the process, with no ill effects. Here’s how I do it now:
1. Combine all ingredients, except fragrance and preservative.
2. Heat until melted.
3. Blend in a mixer (I have a kitchen aid that works awesomely for lotion making).
4. Once fairly cool to the touch (think “luke-warm”), I add my fragrance oil and preservative.
5. Continue mixing to ensure the last ingredients are well incorporated.
6. Pour into sterilized containers.

Lotion Percentages will provide percentage information, to allow you to make your own lotion recipe. Or experiment with the ingredients in this recipe – each oil you substitute may result in a different feel to the end product. I’d suggest making a smaller batch while you experiment.

Here is another lavender soap variation and it’s another big favorite too.

Lavender and Tea Tree essential oils have long been reputed to have tremendous healing and soothing properties. Lavender essential oil has been known to be soothing to dry, itchy skin; calms the mind and eases stress. Lavender eo has been used to treat various skin disorders because of it’s antiseptic and anti-fungal properties, such as acne, wrinkles, and psoriasis. Tea Tree Oil has been used to treat acne, oily skin, rashes. It is used as an antiseptic as well as a general disinfectant. This soap makes a great face soap, and is easy on baby’s butt, too.

I used a few different base recipes, but my all-time favorite was a very simple one.

Makes 2 pounds

24 oz. Olive Oil (75)
8 oz. Palm Kernel Oil (25%)

4.38 oz. Lye (6% superfat)
8.8 oz. goat milk *

1 oz. lavender essential oil
.5 oz tea tree essential oil
2 TBSP lavender powder
2 TBSP fine oatmeal, powdered

* This is your lye amount x 2.

Lavender tea, water, oatmeal milk, soy milk, all may be substituted for the goatmilk.

Freeze the goat milk in the container used for your lye mixture. Once frozen, very slowly add your lye. Stirring, and slowly adding – this helps prevent the milk from getting hot too fast. I also put my container in a bowl with ice to keep the goat milk and lye mixture as cool as possible.

Once mixed and set to cooling, put aside (in a safe place!).

Measure your Palm Kernel Oil (PKO) and melt (not hot, just melted) – I have used a microwave in the past to do this, just make sure your container is microwave safe. If you are able, a stove top works well. I use a hot plate in my soap workshop and love it – found it pretty cheap at a local flea market.

While your PKO is melting, measure your lavender and tea tree essential oils into a glass container.

Prepare your lavender powder and oatmeal powdered. I buy lavender powder, because it’s really fine.

Making oatmeal powder is a little different. I use a combination of whatever I have on hand, rolled oats, instant and I love using baby oatmeal cereal. Whatever I use, I put in a food processor and zap a few times until really fine. Then I use a screen and collect about 2 tablespoons of fine powder for use in this soap.

Have your mold clean, lined and at the ready.

When your PKO is melted, add the olive oil. Feeling the side of the pot, it should not be hot. A little warm is fine, but generally a the cooler the temperature the better when mixing a goat milk soap (actually, I prefer working with cool temps all the time – more time to mix).

Now, your lye mixture should be cooler to the touch and your oils cooler to the touch… think “luke-warm”.

Have your stick blender (immersion blender) at hand and ready. Slowly add your lye mixture to your oils (note: always add the lye TO the oil). Blending while you pour…

Bring your soap mixture to trace (trace is when your spoon or blender leaves a trail and takes a minute to disappear back into the mixture). Once trace has been reached, add your lavender and oatmeal powders, mixing, then your essential oils, mixing..

Everything should be mixed well, now pour into your mold. I do not insulate my soap, but if you prefer to insulate, what I used to do is put a piece of cardboard on top of my soap, then draped a blanket or a thick towel over it. Then, I put it on a shelf for about 24 hours before I unmold and cut. Once cut, I leave on a shelf for another 24 hours before I bevel edges.

Give it a couple weeks before using, though a good month would be best as the soap will harden up nicely over time.

This lavender soap recipe is a variation on Nana’s Lavender Soap – to soothe my vegan friends skin, this soap has no goatmilk.

Lavender essential oil has been known to be soothing to dry, itchy skin; calms the mind and eases stress. Lavender eo has been used to treat various skin disorders because of it’s antiseptic and anti-fungal properties, such as acne, wrinkles, and psoriasis. Adding lavender oil to chamomile helps eczema.

I used a few different base recipes, but my all-time favorite was a very simple one.

2 pounds

24 oz. Olive Oil (75)
8 oz. Palm Kernel Oil (25%)

4.38 oz. Lye (6% superfat)
8.8 oz. lavender tea *

1.5 oz. lavender essential oil
2 TBSP lavender powder

* This is your lye amount x 2.

To make lavender tea, heat water amount (plus extra a little extra) to boiling. Pour over lavender buds and let infuse for 10 minutes or more. I usually do this the night before and leave to infuse the whole time. Once done, filter out the lavender buds and chill the tea.

When the tea is sufficiently chilled, add your lye (remember, add your lye TO the tea, not the other way around). I put my lye mixture container into a bowl a cold water to cool – (sometimes adding ice, depending on how quickly I’m wanting to get things going).

Once mixed and set to cooling, put aside (in a safe place!).

Measure your Palm Kernel Oil (PKO) and melt (not hot, just melted) – I have used a microwave in the past to do this, just make sure your container is microwave safe. If you are able, a stove top works well.

While your PKO is melting, measure your lavender essential oil and lavender powder into separate containers (I always use glass for my essential and fragrance oils).

Have your mold clean, lined and at the ready.

When your PKO is melted, add the olive oil. Feeling the side of the pot, it should not be hot. I prefer working with all the ingredients at a luke-warm temperature. It allows for more time.

Now, your lye mixture should be cooler to the touch and your oils cooler to the touch… again, think “luke warm”.

Have your stick blender (immersion blender) at hand and ready. Slowly add your lye mixture to your oils (note: always add the lye TO the oil). Blending while you pour…

Bring your soap mixture to trace (trace is when your spoon or blender leaves a trail and takes a minute to disappear back into the mixture). Once trace has been reached, add your lavender powder, mixing, then your essential oil, mixing..

Everything should be mixed well, now pour into your mold. I do not insulate my soap, I put it on a shelf for about 24 hours before I unmold and cut. Once cut, I leave on a shelf for another 24 hours before I bevel edges.

Give it a couple weeks before using, though a good month would be best as the soap will harden up nicely over time.